Mezcal is growing wildly popular in the United States and abroad. Even within Mexico, where the spirit originated, its reputation has done an about-face recently. Once a niche spirit looked down upon as tequila’s odd little brother, mezcal is now fully mainstream, earning massive respect globally.
Today, you’ll find creative mezcal-based cocktails on the menus of the hottest bars worldwide. Ten years ago, this was much less common, and twenty years ago, it was unheard of. Despite its former bad rap, mezcal and tequila are produced from the same plant – agave. Unique cultivation processes differentiate the two, but they are part of the same family. Interestingly, tequila can only be made from one specific variety of agave (blue Weber), whereas mezcal can be made from almost any variety of agave – commercially, 30-40 varieties are commonly used. On a sales volume basis, mezcal is still in tequila’s shadow, but that’s changing quickly. Mezcal is the fastest-growing spirit in the world, driving the agave family forward.
According to the IWSR, mezcal sales volume in the United States grew by nearly 50% in 2019 and 15% in 2020. The mezcal industry is projected to continue growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 22.60% between now and 2031. To put this in perspective, the beer industry is expected to grow at a CAGR of 5.44% over the next five years, and the vodka industry by 5.50% in the same period. Mezcal is outpacing these industries significantly.
For those less interested in numbers: mezcal is growing at an unparalleled rate among its peers. Expect to see more mezcal in liquor stores, pop culture, and on restaurant and cocktail bar menus in the coming years. Mezcal is here to stay.
What is Mezcal? How Does It Differ from Tequila?
Mezcal has come a long way from being known as a “poor man’s drink.” Sharing the exact origin as tequila – agave – mezcal has long been viewed as the dominant spirit’s oddball half-brother. Mezcal was a drink for the masses, as it could be made from any agave species in any condition. It became associated mainly with lower-class citizens across Mexico. It’s a shame for those who looked down on mezcal in the past because it’s a beautiful spirit with more vibrancy than tequila. Mezcal’s unique smoky flavor and strong alcohol profile make it a favorite among creative bartenders. Chefs like it, too. The flavor profile holds well in marinating, grilling, and roasting various meats and seafood. The variation of mezcal can take fans on a near never-ending tasting journey. Akin to wine, mezcal offers nuanced flavor profiles from production to production based on the type of agave used and where it was grown.
While tequila must be made from one specific type of agave – blue Weber – mezcal can be made from at least 30 varieties of agave. The production of both mezcal and tequila begins with the cultivation of the piña, the core of the agave plant, also known as the “head.” The piñas are removed, cooked, and ground to release the plant’s natural juices. For mezcal, the piña is roasted in the significant stone ground or earthen pits over the fire, giving mezcal its distinct smoky flavor. Tequila production, on the other hand, is much more modernized and automated. The piñas are often steamed, producing a smoother and more refined taste than mezcal. Yeast is then added to the agave sugars, fermenting them into alcohol. The alcohol is further distilled, often in stills or oak barrels, until it reaches the final product. Depending on the cultivation and cooking method used, the final product is either mezcal or tequila.
Why Did Mezcal Become So Popular?
Before 1994, there were virtually no regulations surrounding mezcal production in Mexico. Any mezcal of any age could be sold primarily without any oversight. This led to widespread quality issues, garnering mezcal a rather unpleasant reputation for much of its existence – a “poor man’s drink.” There was little of a market for the spirit anyway. Things began to change in 1997 when the Official Mexican Standards (NOM) were implemented. Mezcal production was fully regulated and certified by 2005, when these standards became law. Given the luxury of hindsight, this could be considered the beginning of the mezcal craze.
The developments in 2005 caught the attention of entrepreneurs and investors across North America, who began to enter the ripe market. Since then, twelve large-scale production facilities have been built, and the Oaxaca state government has invested millions of dollars in marketing campaigns centered around mezcal. New demand was created for mezcal, and once it caught on, it caught on.
The state of Oaxaca is one of the poorest in Mexico. It is considering that the government is spending serious money on advertising mezcal, that sounds counterintuitive.
Either way, it’s working. Travel + Leisure‘s readers named Oaxaca (the capital city of the eponymously named state) the “best city in the world”… In the world. It beat out many towns. Nobody would have thought about vacationing in Oaxaca a mere decade or two ago, and now luxury resorts and distilleries are popping up like it’s Napa Valley. That’s great for the readers of Travel + Leisure magazine, but what about the people living and working in Oaxaca? How have they benefited from the state’s tourism boom? Indeed, they must have.
Well, the answer is not that cut and dry. The mezcal-driven tourism boom has had positive and negative impacts on the state of Oaxaca, but trickle-down economics have proved over time that it doesn’t work for those on the bottom. Foreign interest and government-sponsored ad campaigns aren’t entirely equivalent to trickle-down economics, but the point is the same. Who benefits most from those government-sponsored ad campaigns, foreign investment, and new development? Foreign investors, local business owners, government officials, and, most notably, tourists. Those at the top of the pyramid benefit the most from Oaxaca’s tourism boom.
Infer from that information what you will.
What Regulations Govern Mezcal Production?
There are two primary goals concerning laws and regulations surrounding mezcal production: 1) to ensure consistent quality overall and 2) to respect artisanal production methods. Both are critically important for the growth of the mezcal industry. Deviations in overall quality largely contributed to Mezcal’s less-than-ideal initial reputation. Because mezcal can be produced using many varieties of agave and in any condition, the spectrum of quality and flavor ranges much more comprehensive than with any other spirit. This should be a strength of mezcal and not a weakness, as it had been for far too long. Requiring that artisanal, or in other words, by hand, production methods be followed ensures mezcal’s authenticity.
The latter aspect drives consumer demand, particularly within the United States, for mezcal more than anything.
More specifically, the standards require mezcal to be bottled at the point of origin, can’t be shipped in bulk with other spirits, and must be sweetened naturally, entirely from the agave plant. Any variety of agave can be used for mezcal production as long as it’s grown in designated Denomination of Origin regions, which are Oaxaca, Guerrero, Guanajuato, Michoacán, Zacatecas, San Luís Potosí, Tamaulipas, Durango, and Puebla. Approximately 90% of mezcal comes from Oaxaca.
The standards further break down mezcal production into three categories: mezcal, artisanal mezcal, and ancestral mezcal. Ancestral mezcal standards are the strictest and least practiced. Most mezcal is artisanal mezcal, which must be made following traditional methods. Regulations allow for some variety in the conventional techniques one can choose from, particularly in the fermentation process. To be considered basic mezcal, producers can use equipment outside the traditional methods, like an autoclave. This is the point at which any artisanal aspects are lost, and we as consumers shouldn’t be drinking or purchasing much, if any, of this type of mezcal. The rapid growth of mezcal is not without risk, and mechanizing its production is an anti-solution to the problems currently being posed by the industry.
Challenges and Sustainability
The problem with mezcal’s popularity arises within the spirit’s greatest strength: its artisanal aspect. Artisanal is literally: “a product, especially food or drink, made in a traditional or non-mechanized way.” That also translates to “it’s going to take a while.” And therein lies the problem. How can you quickly scale an artisanal product and keep it artisanal? The rapid growth of the mezcal industry is proving that it’s hard to do just that.
Certain varieties of agave used in mezcal production can take up to 25 years to grow to maturity. That means that mezcal producers are already starting at a disadvantage against time. As a producer, you wait a fraction of a generation for your crop to grow, and you still can’t use machines to finish the process? You’re probably starting to see part of the problem by now.
Even some of the fastest-growing agave varieties can take up to 7 years to reach maturity. There’s only one way around the time it takes to grow agave by harvesting the crop prematurely – and that presents a considerable threat to the natural reproduction of wild agave. Growing more crops is a theoretical solution, but it’s not viable for the long-term well-being of Mother Nature. Farmland is already chewing up vast acreage of the earth’s surface, presenting massive ecological challenges that we’ve yet to face.
Fortunately, advocacy groups promote sustainability and conservation in mezcal and tequila production. The Bat Friendly Project is a Mexico-based advocacy group championing the use of bats as part of the solution toward sustainable agave harvesting. Agave plants naturally reproduce by flowering and releasing seeds into the air. However, harvesting them prematurely prevents the plants from flowering. Producers’ efforts to speed up production inherently pose a direct risk to the natural reproduction of agave. It’s like digging your own future grave because it’s good business right now.
Alas, the bats. The Bat Friendly Project advocates for producers to allow just 5% of their crop to reach maturity and enable bats to pollinate the rest of the land. Bats rapidly cross-pollinate agave plants, mimicking the environment as if the entire crop had matured and been allowed to reproduce naturally. These efforts also help protect the natural bat population. If producers meet bat-friendly production standards, they can be certified as such. This not only helps sustainable producers stand out but also helps consumers make informed purchases. The latter is equally, if not more important, in influencing sustainable practices. Consumers have the most incredible power in this dynamic, that is, the right to support sustainable businesses.
When I reference consumers, I include bar, restaurant, and retail owners, all of whom have critical influence over individuals.
Consumer Role in Sustainability
Producers will always look for ways to economize the production of their goods. It’s just good business practice. That is, until it isn’t only when they’re incentivized not to.
Mezcal should not be treated as a commodity, and it should not be compared with other mass-produced. spirits. It deserves independent featuring in liquor stores and should be showcased on menus, similar to wine. It’s important to acknowledge andt that mezcal production is time-intensive. Due to this lengthy process, prices will naturally be higher, and this should be acceptable to consumers. When purchasing mezcal, consumers should prioritize quality, origin, and characteristics over price.
Every bottle carries a unique story. Mezcal deserves to be treated as a premium product, and there should be a minimum standard for doing business. It’s important to prioritize supporting small producers over foreign brands backed by venture capitalists. Look for the Bat Friendly Certification when making your choice. The push for sustainability can and should begin with consumers, not just at the level of venture capital boardrooms.
So, get yourself some sustainably sourced mezcal and get to drinking… or cooking!
Featured Mezcal Recipes:
To truly appreciate the versatility and unique flavors of mezcal, here are some exceptional recipes that showcase this remarkable spirit:
Cinnamon Hibiscus Mezcal Margarita
Experience the vibrant fusion of tart hibiscus and warming cinnamon in this delightful margarita. The smoky undertones of mezcal perfectly balance the floral hibiscus and spicy cinnamon, creating a refreshing and memorable cocktail that’s perfect for any occasion.
Orange Mocha Mezcal Margarita
Indulge in the rich, decadent flavors of chocolate and coffee with a citrusy twist in this innovative margarita. The combination of orange and mocha complements the smoky mezcal, offering a luxurious and complex drink that’s sure to impress your guests.
Corn and Mezcal Guacamole
Elevate your guacamole game with this unique twist. The addition of mezcal adds a subtle smokiness that pairs beautifully with the sweet, crunchy corn. This mezcal-infused guacamole is perfect as a dip or a topping for your favorite Mexican dishes, providing a burst of flavor in every bite.
Sweet and Smoky Mezcal-Infused Buffalo Wings
Take your buffalo wings to the next level with a sweet and smoky mezcal-infused sauce. The bold flavors of mezcal meld with the sweetness of honey and the heat of buffalo sauce, creating irresistibly delicious wings that will be the star of any gathering.
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